Review: THE SOCIETY FOR NEW CUISINE, Omnibus Theatre

Photo credit: Kenny Kung

There’s something deliciously unsettling about The Society for New Cuisine, and Chris Fung’s one-man performance grabs you by the taste buds before dragging you into a world that is dark, absurd, and utterly compelling. If you like your theatre light and easy to digest, this isn’t it.

Fung delivers a masterclass in control. His character is stewing in his own grief and desperation, but Fung himself is as precise as a Michelin-starred chef, knowing exactly how to pace each moment, and he shifts effortlessly between charming and unnerving, keeping the audience hooked as he ladles out equal parts wit and unease. It’s a performance you can’t help but savour, even when it leaves an aftertaste of dread.

And dread really is the right word because this isn’t a story that sits comfortably; it’s unsettling, asks questions about control, consumption, and the things we do when we’re starving – physically, emotionally, or otherwise. There are some moments that absolutely push the boundary of taste and not everyone is going to have the stomach for it, but for those willing to go there, it’s a feast worth devouring.

Visually, the production is stripped down, and the lighting and sound design add just enough seasoning, enhancing the experience without overpowering it. It’s subtle but smart – like a dish that relies on quality ingredients rather than an excess of garnish. Clever use of technology also adds an unexpected layer to the performance – voice-changing microphones and pre-recorded voices are employed to eerie and sometimes jarring effect, amplifying moments of distortion and disorientation and making the storytelling feel even more surreal and fractured. There’s a particularly unsettling, devastating moment that takes place during a phone call – you know what’s coming, and, unfortunately, you can’t look away.

The Society for New Cuisine won’t be for everyone, and honestly, that’s what makes it special; it’s bold, unsettling, and undeniably compelling, threatening to linger long after the final course. So if you’re ready to challenge your theatrical appetite, dig in.

**** Four stars

Reviewed by: Lisamarie Lamb

The Society for New Cuisine plays at London’s Omnibus Theatre until 5 April, with further info here.